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Is glass really this hard to break?


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  • Is glass really this hard to break?

    I was about to post this video asking if it was BS and just a marketing scam:

    Then I looked on youtube and it definitely looks like glass is hard as hell to break:

    Can anyone share some experience about breaking glass? I have never tried to break glass with my baton.

  • #2
    strike car windows in the corners not the center. tint and build in window films make it even worse, and dont try the front windshield, you'll be at it forever.
    Last edited by luckydog; 09-01-2008, 03:58 PM.


    • #3
      glass is very strong.....until you DON'T want it to break
      He who laughs last.......thinks slowest


      • #4
        If the object youre trying to use has too much surface area, youre gonna have a hard time. The best way to break glass is using something specially made to break glass. Its usually just a hardened steel point. The smaller surface area makes it a lot easier.

        Nail punches work, even the spring loaded ones. If you want to use a baton/flashlight/whatever, if you can put a hard, small, point on it, you should be good.

        There are a handful of pocket knives with glass breakers on them. It may seem like a marketing gimmick, but little steel point saves a lot of time and effort in the event that you need to get through some glass.
        "...and the taking of a life is murder. And the punishment for murder is.... well it varies from state to state and by race, but...." - Homer J Simpson.

        Police: "Stop and we'll shoot!"
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        Police: "Well, it would be alot easier for us. The targets at the shooting range don't run."

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        • #5
          In general, there are two types of glass you will encounter in a vehicle - tempered glass and laminated glass.

          Tempered glass is designed to shatter into little pieces and not leave long, sharp, pointed edges. This is most commonly found in the side windows to a vehicle. The other type is laminated glass. It is sandwiched between layers of plastic, and will crack and spiderweb, but will not fall apart. This is most commonly found in windshields. Tempered glass can be easily broken. Laminated glass effectively must be cut.

          The video they showed was bogus. In order to break glass, you need to need to concentrate a LOT of force directly against the glass. What you saw on the video was a "glancing" blow, and not a direct forward impact. The force also needs to be focused through a very small surface area.

          By using a glancing blow against the center of the window, you're (a) allowing the window to flex, (b) allowing the force to dissipate through the entire surface area of the glass, and (c) not utilizing the full force potential that can be delivered by a direct, square impact.

          Windows CAN be broken with a baton or a maglite. You have to strike the window in an area where it isn't going to flex and an area where the force isn't going to be radiated 360 degrees around the impact area (i.e. a corner) and you have to use a direct blow against the window. Without having to use a spring-loaded punch, I've broken windows with a baton, a maglite, an am/fm stereo antenna, and a screwdriver. It just takes a little bit of practice in "reading" the glass.


          • #6
            This will do the exact same thing to tempered glass. http://www.redboxtools.com/detail.cfm?productID=1482


            • #7
              I drove up on a wreck seconds after it happened and had one guy doing the death grunt on the side of the road, trapped in his locked vehicle. The car caught fire and I had to get him out ASAP. I used my maglite but I used the edge of the end cap and was successful after hitting it close to where the door lock was on the inside. (Lower right corner). We were able to then get the guy out. I agree with the smaller surface of the striking instrument on an edge of the glass will work every time.
              I am a Native American of non-Indian decent.

              Cleaning the pool, one gene at a time.

              I'm on a 30 day diet. So far I've lost 15 days!


              • #8
                Originally posted by luckydog View Post
                strike car windows in the corners not the center. tint and build in window films make it even worse, and dont try the front windshield, you'll be at it forever.
                Pineapple Express shows a good example of trying to kick out a windshield...in a patrol car no less.


                • #9
                  nothing a trusty hammer can't fix.


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by nogginbuster24 View Post
                    nothing a trusty hammer can't fix.
                    Or break.
                    "Friendly Fire, isn't"


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by KY Blue 72 View Post
                      Can anyone share some experience about breaking glass? I have never tried to break glass with my baton.
                      Glass never breaks when you want it to and always breaks when you don't want it to.

                      The product seems like a good idea. I'd buy one if A: It didn't have a gehtto name like "Bust A Cap", and B: Their website didn't freeze up my updated version of Internet Explorer with every plug-in known to man.
                      "Why is common sense so rare?" - Me

                      By the way.. They aren't "Clients" or "Customers" they're CRIMINALS... sheesh


                      • #12
                        Both the videos show glass not breaking because of weak strikes.

                        If you expect it to break like a crystal vase of course you're not going to be successful. You have to hit the glass like you've got a pair.

                        But if you insist on buying a glass-breaking product I think this flash hider is the way to go:



                        • #13
                          I met the owner of this company at a local dealer knife show a couple months ago, he is a recently retired SO that started this. I have been bugging him for 2 months for a model to fit my old SL-20X, as I think it is a great idea.
                          For my motorcycle I have one of those spring loaded centerpunches under a kneepuck, but for my car, rather than have another tool floating around in a pocket/compartment, it seems like a good idea to have it on the flashlight that is already likely to be avail during an accident scene.

                          The right technique can make a flashlight alone work, but there is no harm in this endcap being on an existing light. Especially something like a Stinger that has much less mass than a full size, where every advantage can help.
                          And I don't want to break an expensive bulb pounding with the light when the other end does it better.

                          (and yes, that web site totally takes too many resources to run. Purdy, though...)

                          Consult your physician to see if the 'Pism is right for you. Symptoms may include euphoria, smugness, moistness, and increased sarcasm levels. Discontinue use if you experience nausea, vomiting, or a condition lasting longer than 4 hours. Your mileage may vary, first time buyers are welcome, and wait at least 30 minutes before swimming. See our ad in this month's Cosmo, net weight before cooking.


                          • #14
                            I have found a flick with the asp works alot batter than a hard strike like you apply to a leg. The flashlight works best, and striking it with small tools with the sharp metal tips can get you cut good. I did that with a knife with the strike tip and got a pretty good cut on the outer edge of my palm, although it did the job fine so I really can't complain. The asp is the only thing I have had to try 2x or more and it was easy enough once I figured it out.


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